Thursday, March 31, 2011

Abstract Outline

Feasibility of adding ridgid insulation to the outside of an existing single family home
Many different things can be done to improve a building envelope, such as improving the windows, doors, air tightness, and amount of insulation in or on the walls. This outline will describe to potential benefits to Adding additional insulation to the outside of a home. Naturally, any additional form of insulation will improve the R value of a wall. Expanded polystyrene (XPS) however seems the best choice due to its properties. It “works well in wet conditions, and can act as a vapour retarder” (©1996 – 2011 CMHC-SCHL). It also has one of the highest R ratings per inch, roughly 4.5 - 5.0 (information gathered from Canada Mortgage & Housing Corp.)  The feasibility of adding XPS to a house is dependent on a number of things, such as how much insulation will be added, whether it will be added to the outside or the inside, and the overall size of the house. Adding the XPS to the outside would most likely be more efficient, since you would simply have to remove the exterior cladding rather than the inside layer of drywall. Also note that after so many layers of insulation, the heat retention capability of the wall does not increase proportionally. More than 2-4 inches of insulation will make the project unfeasible due to cost.
            Other advantages to adding XPS to the outside of a house would be to minimize thermal gaps created over time when the batt insulation inside the stud wall starts to slump, creating air gaps at the tops of the walls. It also minimizes thermal bridging caused by the studs themselves.When only wall cavities are insulated, fully one quarter of the wall surface is left un-insulated” (© The Dow Chemical Company (1995-2011).)
                One of the main disadvantages of adding XPS to the outside of the wall is its susceptibility to moisture condensation and subsequent moisture build-up inside the wall. “According to some builders, rigid foam insulation on the exterior of the building carries an increased risk of water damage inside exterior walls, because the foam can trap moisture and prevent walls from drying to the exterior.” (©Sept. 2010 greenbuildingadvisor.com) Another issue would be how to attach the siding back on the house with the extra insulation sandwiched in-between. There are some ways that would work, such as “installing 1x3 or 2x4 horizontal strapping, 24 inches on center, on top of the foam” (©Sept. 2010 greenbuildingadvisor.com), and then attaching the old siding to the house. Nevertheless, if done right it will improve the the reduction of a buildings heat loss through the walls. The cost of the materials and labour for the house in question would roughly be $2430 and $1511 respectively (see cost estimate sheet). This overall cost will then be deducted from heat savings by the heating system annually until finally the project will have paid itself off. In order to calculate the cost savings annually, heat loss calculations on both the improved and old wall system will have to be done. These calculations will be studied in detail during the fall semester in the 3rd year ARET 3500 course. (Cost Estimate Sheet not included)

9 comments:

  1. It would also be interesting to look at the possibility of insulating the house from the inside and compare the pros and cons of both methods.

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  2. Hey Dennis,
    Great abstract I look forward to hearing the progress on your research. I know that you are exploring rigid insulation and mositure, I came across a website that might be helpful to your research. I hope it helps!
    http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/green-basics/rigid-foam-insulation
    Brittany

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  3. thanks for the imput. I added a section on pros & cons for insulation placment, and took a look at the website you found Brittany. There are a lot out there, but this one has a lot of usefull info in it. Thanks a lot

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  4. Hi Dennis.
    Here is a link to the WUFI software that can be used for calculating moisture transfer in building components: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/btc/apps/moisture/ibpe_sof161.htm#a04

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  5. thanks for the link dale.

    Dennis

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  6. Hey Dennis,
    your research looks fantastic. i was just wondering, what do think you have found is the biggest downfall to doing this to a house? do you think cost would be the major factor or is that just one? what is the major issue to applying this to a project?

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  7. Hey Dennis,

    I found a paperon improving building envelopes. Here's the link:
    http://www.ornl.gov/sci/buildings/2010/Session%20PDFs/94_New.pdf
    Hope it can help you out :)

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  8. Thanks Taryn, and I know Brandon :S
    Jessica, cost would not be a big issue as much as making 100% sure that the improvments are done properly. moisture buildup inside the wall cavitity is the biggest worry by far, and on a new house this can be minimized by exluding the vapour barrier on the outside and using dense packed cellulose(mold resistant, water absorbent). That way if there is water in the wall, it can evaporate on the inside without damaging the wall.

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  9. Be sure that your citations are in APA format. Here is a link to the SFU APA style guide: http://www.lib.sfu.ca/help/writing/apa
    If you look in the appendix of the BCBC (page 735) you will see a detail with insulation on the exterior. The table on the next page show the minimum thickness of the exterior rigid insulation based on the degree days of the location. For Kamloops, which has 3650 degree days, only 19mm would be needed (less than one inch), but the more you have the better. Calculations like this should be included in your research report.
    Another option that you could look at would be spray foam. Although this is much more expensive than rigid insulation it is very effective at air sealing the home and you may not have to increase the thickness of the walls.

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